Tripac wiring help

Thread starter #21
Thermoking specs there alternator to run at 14.0 volts.

Even my 35SI alternator on the truck only normally shows 13.6 -13.8 volts normally. It's also got a sense wire on it so it makes sense.

So replacing the alternator and only seeing 13.6 bolts makes sense. The OEM Thermo King alternator temperature compensate for ambient temps. Most other voltage regulator won't.

Thermoking makes a fuse relocation kit to do just what you talked about. Moves the maxi fuse from the bottom of the case to the top. But it doesn't increase the amp rating of the fuse. Just moves the location. It's also $180 just for the 18" piece of wire and new fuse holder. Yeah, I made my own relocation kit for $20 in parts. It's why I bought the crimper.
That's why I own a crimped. So I plan on running a new wire up to the control and having the altonator tested I will report what I find.
 
Thread starter #22
Ok so I ran a new wire up to the control cleaned all the grounds charged the batteries only getting 13.6 from back of alt. And 12.8 at controls with AC on I have a question on the gm alternator should there be s resistor to simulate a bulb on the L terminal I just have a key on voltage? My thoughts are if this is the volt since wire and its seeing 13.6 than the alt thinks it's all set I'm just going crazy that I run the alt on the bench and get 14.2 in the apu 13.6 what am I missing?
 
Thread starter #26
Which GM alternator did you use?

What RPMs are you testing the unit at?
1995 chevy impala 105 amp with the small pulley there was a post I followed it and used a used alternator and it worked great for almost a year than alternator died got it rebuilt still getting low voltage? Testing it at auto supply on there test bench....
 
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#27
When it’s installed on the APU, what rpm are you running it at to test it?

If the only thing that you changed (before redoing some wiring) was having it rebuilt, then perhaps the rebuilder used wrong or crappy parts

Have you tried buying a similar alternator and seeing if there’s a change? You need to isolate if it’s your current alternator vs the APU unit, in my opinion
 
Thread starter #28
When it’s installed on the APU, what rpm are you running it at to test it?

If the only thing that you changed (before redoing some wiring) was having it rebuilt, then perhaps the rebuilder used wrong or crappy parts

Have you tried buying a similar alternator and seeing if there’s a change? You need to isolate if it’s your current alternator vs the APU unit, in my opinion
I removed the rebuilt alternator and bench tested it 14.2
I found and fixed the problem.
In the back bottom of the cabinet there is a ground terminal with 3 ground studs pressed into it 2 on the back and one on the front all the grounds fo there...I removed the wires and cleaned them the day before and they looked good they are a bugger to get to...just like the battery feed at the starter well I thought that was part of the frame it's not it has one bolt holding it to the frame that was corroded the bolt was so rusty it broke I cleaned it up new bolt some dielectric grease and wolla 14.2....it was a long 3 days banging my head. I look at the bright side I found and fixed or replaced a bunch of corroded wires I am pretty thorough when it comes to fixing things and I never give up till it's fixed rite thanks to everyone who helped me get this fixed it is very important to have sites like this to work through problems....thanks again
 
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