Truck Repair Soldering how to?

Ontario Outlaw

Hozer Witta Hood
Supporter
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Maybe I should get a roll of the premise two wire with pigtails, instead of making a harness?

That bottom pic looks awfully like greenies starting
 

Ontario Outlaw

Hozer Witta Hood
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Should I get a piece of flat stainless to try to box in the back?

Or just start over with ones that are a box?
 

ironpony

Professional Pot-Stirrer
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Rosin core solder is used on electronics. If you're soldering metals, it's usually an acid flux that's used.
 

r3gulator3

Friendly Neighborhood Former Technician
Staff member
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Personally I’d just get a string to light wiring and replace it and stop repairing it. When you have wires doubled like that it’s impossible to make them weather tight. Box or no box in behind it will collect moisture. I don’t see a point in spending the money. Just my 2 cents.
 

mndriver

curmudgeon extraordinare
Supporter
with electrical, use rosin core.

Acid core is for like plumbing or such. Not for electrical stuff. Leads to corrosion.

and yes, you will want to box that assembly in to protect it from road muck.

I finally did that to my century and it was replaced every 6 months until I did that. I haven't had to replace anything wiring wise on it since 2013.
 

ironpony

Professional Pot-Stirrer
Supporter
That green crap is corroding copper. You need to cut the connection off, and start over.
 

Ontario Outlaw

Hozer Witta Hood
Supporter
Personally I’d just get a string to light wiring and replace it and stop repairing it. When you have wires doubled like that it’s impossible to make them weather tight. Box or no box in behind it will collect moisture. I don’t see a point in spending the money. Just my 2 cents.
The mudflap hangers I can use the string of endless pigtails. The ones on the sleeper I’ll need to make a harness
 

Ontario Outlaw

Hozer Witta Hood
Supporter
with electrical, use rosin core.

Acid core is for like plumbing or such. Not for electrical stuff. Leads to corrosion.

and yes, you will want to box that assembly in to protect it from road muck.

I finally did that to my century and it was replaced every 6 months until I did that. I haven't had to replace anything wiring wise on it since 2013.
I’m asking for contact info for the guy who made them. I’ll see if he can bend up something to box it in
 

r3gulator3

Friendly Neighborhood Former Technician
Staff member
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The mudflap hangers I can use the string of endless pigtails. The ones on the sleeper I’ll need to make a harness
No you can buy a string of premade light wiring at most truck/trailer shops. The only thing you need to supply to it is fused switched power and a ground.
 

Ontario Outlaw

Hozer Witta Hood
Supporter
No you can buy a string of premade light wiring at most truck/trailer shops. The only thing you need to supply to it is fused switched power and a ground.
I’ll call Traction in the morning, see what they have for the premade light wiring like you posted

The lights on the back of the sleeper don’t take a pigtail, they need to be hardwired in a harness

Chicken lights are awesome when they’re working :cautious:
 

Ontario Outlaw

Hozer Witta Hood
Supporter
All my chicken lights are on the market light circuit, fed from the junction box at the rear of the tractor
 

r3gulator3

Friendly Neighborhood Former Technician
Staff member
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I’ll call Traction in the morning, see what they have for the premade light wiring like you posted

The lights on the back of the sleeper don’t take a pigtail, they need to be hardwired in a harness

Chicken lights are awesome when they’re working :cautious:
That they do. My brother never repairs his wiring. He buys a spool of that stuff and replaces it about every 2 years or if it gets a sore spot or starts to corrode he replaces that whole section.
 

r3gulator3

Friendly Neighborhood Former Technician
Staff member
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All my chicken lights are on the market light circuit, fed from the junction box at the rear of the tractor
And that would be switched fused power however the more you add the more likely the circuit is to fail. Personally I would hook them to a spare switch seperator from the markers. Then you don’t have to turn them on when you go across the scale. Lol
 

Ontario Outlaw

Hozer Witta Hood
Supporter
And that would be switched fused power however the more you add the more likely the circuit is to fail. Personally I would hook them to a spare switch seperator from the markers. Then you don’t have to turn them on when you go across the scale. Lol
“Go across the scale” :confused-96:

I’m not sure what you mean by that :coocoo:

I’d have to think about how to make a new, fused, switched circuit for chicken lights. I run a grote 44710 flasher, and most of my chicken lights are LED or being switched for LEDs.

But you’re right, running over 100 lights on one circuit whether LED or incandescent is a lot for one circuit
 
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