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Product Review: Hot Shots Secret Stiction Eliminator

ironpony

Professional Pot-Stirrer
Supporter
Exactly. This is why I never go on things like fuel economy numbers, unless somebody can back it up with solid testing and proof.

Hotshots (the oil additive, not their fuel additive) is the one product where I have seen multiple people looking at injector replacements try it and come out with extremely good results.
You're still better off with a new set of injectors. They do wear out over time.

This snake oil is just a temporary fix at best.
 

Duck

Bumper sticker slogan goes here
Supporter
I've got better things to spend money on than $110 - $120 a gallon snake oil.

IMO y'all are getting took.

May as well get some magic aircel tubes and fuel magnets while you're at it.

You're performance numbers would be getting better this time of year no matter what you're putting in your oil. It getting warmer out, so the air you push aside as you go down the road is less dense, hence it takes less energy to go down the road.
How about the switch from winter to summer fuel blends?
 

Duck

Bumper sticker slogan goes here
Supporter
Pretty sure the entire month of March, we were using winter blend for everything north of I80.
Pretty sure?

Sure enough to confidently attribute any changes in your numbers to the product in question?


Don't mind me. I'm just bored so I thought I'd try to post something relevant to the topic for once in my life. :D
 

mndriver

curmudgeon extraordinare
Supporter
Exactly. This is why I never go on things like fuel economy numbers, unless somebody can back it up with solid testing and proof.

Hotshots (the oil additive, not their fuel additive) is the one product where I have seen multiple people looking at injector replacements try it and come out with extremely good results.

I'm right there with you. I dislike additives and see little to no use for them. Even Power service I am reluctant to use, but I have SEEN it melt the ice crystals forming in fuel. So I keep 911 handy for emergencies.

At 1.1 million miles, I won't deny that I am likely due injectors. But if the engine is still running good, with no blowby or crankcase pressure, It's not getting torn down. Until then, the last thing I want to do is open up any more of the engine than needed.

The bearings and lower end have been inspected and show no sign of wear to justify new bearings installed anytime soon. So we leave it alone too.

Now it's almost becoming a personal challenge to see if I can make 2.0 without doing a rebuild. Or at least just how far I can push this out towards that number.
 

mndriver

curmudgeon extraordinare
Supporter
Pretty sure?

Sure enough to confidently attribute any changes in your numbers to the product in question?


Don't mind me. I'm just bored so I thought I'd try to post something relevant to the topic for once in my life. :D
as sure as it took you WAY too much time to build your garage.
 

mndriver

curmudgeon extraordinare
Supporter
Right now on my engine I know two things.

It's not due for a rebuild ANYTIME soon.

I also know that my fuel mileage is acting and responding exactly like it was both times my exhaust manifold was leaking or cracked before.

And until THAT is addressed, I am not expecting to see any increase in fuel mileage or more manageable EGT.
 

Mike

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Pretty sure?

Sure enough to confidently attribute any changes in your numbers to the product in question?


Don't mind me. I'm just bored so I thought I'd try to post something relevant to the topic for once in my life. :D
Can't vouch for every truck stop, but TA/Petro guaranteed winter blend fuel through the end of March.
 

ironpony

Professional Pot-Stirrer
Supporter
How about the switch from winter to summer fuel blends?
Yup there's that too.

Spring weather - the gusty winds - will tend to retard the performance increases you see.

Declaring some expensive snake oil a success based on on treatment is a little suspect as well.

So what's the long-term implication of using this stuff? It took Slick50 a year or more before what turned into catastrophic engine damage started becoming apparent.
 

mndriver

curmudgeon extraordinare
Supporter
so the rough cold start idle that is no more is all related to the wind?

The instant, unhesitating starts instead of the long cranking starts is related to the wind?

Or the LACK of white smoke in the mornings under 35*F when it starts.

Stuff that has nothing to do with running down the road or the wind.

A cold engine at ambient temps is a cold engine not at operating temps.
 

mndriver

curmudgeon extraordinare
Supporter
So what's the long-term implication of using this stuff? It took Slick50 a year or more before what turned into catastrophic engine damage started becoming apparent.

do you even review the oil analysis results that I posted?
 

ironpony

Professional Pot-Stirrer
Supporter
Mike Mike and I were discussing performance.

so the rough cold start idle that is no more is all related to the wind?
I would think rough idle is more due to an old vibration damper and worn injectors.

The instant, unhesitating starts instead of the long cranking starts is related to the wind?
Injectors, old batteries, a worn starter motor.

Or the LACK of white smoke in the mornings under 35*F when it starts.
White smoke is a sign of moisture or coolant in the cylinders. Worn rings, scored liners. How is your oil consumption?

Stuff that has nothing to do with running down the road or the wind.
Never said it did. Comes from not following the conversation.

A cold engine at ambient temps is a cold engine not at operating temps.
Which is another reason you get rough idle... the engine just don't like being run cold.

Your magic elixer is a bandaid.
 
Last edited:

gearjammer

jammer
Staff member
Supporter
somewhere in the past I have talked about my experience with motorkote, it was the only additive I ever found that gave results that were visible, 1/2 MPG, smoother,quieter engine, motorkote along with a bypass filter and I always had great oil analist reports, and with over one million miles on the truck without any major work that was proof enough for me to start using it in everything I own that has an engine on it.
I also used it in the tranny and differentials
 

mndriver

curmudgeon extraordinare
Supporter
Beauty of working with old stuff. If you leave it alone, it does not have issues.

Well, this showed up after one day of driving. In 1200 miles, used 3 quarts of oil. Unacceptable.
IMG_20170406_121927.jpg

That needed to get fixed. There's a seal on the outside of the pan there. When we pulled the pan off to replace or tighten the large fitting going through the pan, hard and brittle. Original equipment.

What the heck, since we are in there with the pan down.

Pull #6 thrust cap and one rod cap.

Same as it looked in October 2014 when the rear structure was rebuilt and th clutch replaced.

Main
IMG_20170406_121704.jpg

Rod

IMG_20170406_121640.jpg


No issues in what I'm seeing. 1.1 million. 352,000 set at 630 hp /2300 tq for power

Sent the pictures to a couple others. One that races this engine in a drag strip.

They were impressed with the look.

General feed back.....
Oil pressure is good. Oil samples are good. Run 'em
 

mndriver

curmudgeon extraordinare
Supporter
In the end, I finally just replaced my injectors. They were starting to show high levels of soot in my oil samples and excessive black smoke trails when pulling onto the interstate. I'm talking old school trucks from the 70's lines of black coal. It also developed a bad stutter as well.

We figure there was in excess of 700,000 miles on the injectors and likely some were original at 1.12 million miles.

I had injector cups installed at the same time.
 

ironpony

Professional Pot-Stirrer
Supporter
My truck has been performing way better with a six pack installed. 921,000+ miles.
 

mndriver

curmudgeon extraordinare
Supporter
July 10, 2018, oil sample came back for coolant in the oil.

Liners still had cross hatch in them and the wear wasn't as expected for 1.13 million miles. I will attribute that to having an Apu and not idling all the time.

Hard parts could have been reused but weren't.

What failed as the coolant O-ring on #1 cylinder liner. We could have simply replaced it, but opted for a full and complete in-frame.
 
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