3406B CAT

dave350

Well-Known Member
Thread starter #1
its been an on again off again quest to find the parts manual and operations and maintenance manuals for my engine. I’ve found an aftermarket source but the prices were a little salty and I’d rather have the manuals straight from CAT. So yesterday I did an another online search.

CAT has both manuals for a 3406b with serial number starting at FB1 and up. Mine is FB05..... Is anybody familiar enough with these engines to know if FB1 manuals will be good for an FB0? The manuals on CATs website for the FB1’s had a 1988 date on them. Mine is an 84.

Here is another question. I always ran CAT brand filters for my oil and fuel filter. I looked them up on Amazon yesterday and they’re running about 30 bucks now. They have a fleet guard oil filter for 18 and a G and T for 12 bucks. Big difference in price but saving a few bucks on filters isn’t worth rebuilding an engine. Thoughts on that?

Then we get to oil. I always ran Rotella 15W40. It looks like there is some more variation in the types of oil though. I believe I was running CJ-4 which covers new and old engines but now wondering if there might be something more suited for the older engines or stick with that. My oil samples were always good with the oil I ran and I was up 15k between changes with still more miles left in the oil but I was hesitant to push it too far. Thought on this?
 

mndriver

curmudgeon extraordinare
Supporter
#2
The old mechanical engine I wouldn't run past 10-11,000 miles.
 

Silverwolf

Well-Known Member
#3
Id stick with the 15/40, no need to change, synthetic is too thin for older engines and burns out bearings, so don't go there. Unless its been rebuilt and the bearings channeled, and upgraded. Fleet guard makes ok filters, never used the others. I have a good source for manuals, but would need the whole serial number.
 

dave350

Well-Known Member
Thread starter #5
Id stick with the 15/40, no need to change, synthetic is too thin for older engines and burns out bearings, so don't go there. Unless its been rebuilt and the bearings channeled, and upgraded. Fleet guard makes ok filters, never used the others. I have a good source for manuals, but would need the whole serial number.
Ill post the number when I get home.
I’ll check around some more for CAT filter prices. Maybe I can find them under $30 somewhere. Appreciate the info.
 

dave350

Well-Known Member
Thread starter #6
I'd seriously consider a bypass filter too
I was looking into bypass filters when I put my authority on hold. I was pretty firm on 10k mile oil changes myself and it was a slow creep to get to 15k. Real slow. To go behond 15 I’d feel more comfortable with a bypass filter.
 

dave350

Well-Known Member
Thread starter #8
I called Caterpillar yesterday and left a voicemail for guy and also gave him all my related info. This will be the second or third time trying to go through CAT. I’m not sure why this process is proving to be so difficult

We’ll see if he calls me today.
 

dave350

Well-Known Member
Thread starter #9
Success! Caterpillar called me back with the correct manual numbers. I ordered them last week and they’re scheduled for arrival this Wednesday. On the manual cover it says FB1 and up but after double checking it’s the correct one for my FB0.

Everybody can relax now and take a deep breath. :D
 

mndriver

curmudgeon extraordinare
Supporter
#10
How far are you from Cheyenne Wyoming?
 

mndriver

curmudgeon extraordinare
Supporter
#12
Service manager and I have spoken about the B model several times. Pretty sharp guy on it. Just a reference.

Jeff fish. Floyd's truck
 

dave350

Well-Known Member
Thread starter #13
Service manager and I have spoken about the B model several times. Pretty sharp guy on it. Just a reference.

Jeff fish. Floyd's truck
Awesome thank you!
A friend of mine found a shop around here (Baltimore area) that is family owned and the grandfather is supposed to be a real good B model mechanic. They’re getting harder to find. The local shop in my town is owned by a guy that worked for CAT for 20 years or so but he’s getting ready to retire. He did all the work on mine. When I get mine back out I’ll probably try the shop I mentioned above.

Out this way there’s also Antrim Diesel. They have a real good reputation with the older engines also. They’re in Greencastle, Pa
 

mndriver

curmudgeon extraordinare
Supporter
#14
Never heard of the place.......:biggrin:




Met the guy who tuned my truck there and had it tuned on their Dyno. Antrim is good with Mack engines too.
 

r3gulator3

Friendly Neighborhood Former Technician
Staff member
Supporter
#15
I know we are talking about an older engine here but let’s say you get a cat platinum overhaul. Your warranty is void if you run anything but cat filters. Just saying, food for thought.

I am a fan of fleet guard made by Cummins filtration. I wouldn’t personally buy anything else.

10-15k on oil is ok if you get bypass filtration I would push it out further.

Glad you found your books. One thing about cat. You might not be able to buy that engine in one piece, but you can still buy all the pieces from them.
 

dave350

Well-Known Member
Thread starter #16
Your warranty is void if you run anything but cat filters.
I didn’t know that. When I had mine rebuilt the local shop I used did the work. Later, I had a valve seat drop and it took out the one cylinder and turbo. CAT up in Millersburg, Pa did the work. New head, cylinder pack, and turbo.

Thanks for info on the filters. The difference in cost adds up so if Fleetguard is just as good as CAT I’ll go with Fleetguard. I’m not sure who makes the CAT filters but if the quality is comparable then I’m paying 12 extra bucks for yellow paint and CAT name.

I’m getting ready to dump the antifreeze and put some fresh in. What are your thoughts on the premixed versus using concentrate with distilled water? It looks like the premix is de-ionized water which I’ve read is better. I believe Fleetguard has a premix. I never used Extended Life and am not really interested in using it. That was in the truck when I bought it and it tended to seep out.
 

mndriver

curmudgeon extraordinare
Supporter
#17
Premix is 50/50.

I run 60/40 for better freeze/boil protection
 

r3gulator3

Friendly Neighborhood Former Technician
Staff member
Supporter
#18
Unless your going to stay in the extreme north I would go with premix as de-ionized water won’t corrode aluminum components as quickly as other types of water. If you want the extra freeze protection then go with concentrate and use distilled water as @mndriver suggested above.

So the difference between a CAT filter and a Fleetguard Filter is CAT uses acrylic beading in a spiral to keep the pleats in the paper cartridge, and they paint it yellow and put that expensive trademark logo on the side. With as often as you change oil. I would not worry about the need for acrylic bearing.
 
#19
Unless your going to stay in the extreme north I would go with premix as de-ionized water won’t corrode aluminum components as quickly as other types of water. If you want the extra freeze protection then go with concentrate and use distilled water as @mndriver suggested above.

So the difference between a CAT filter and a Fleetguard Filter is CAT uses acrylic beading in a spiral to keep the pleats in the paper cartridge, and they paint it yellow and put that expensive trademark logo on the side. With as often as you change oil. I would not worry about the need for acrylic bearing.
I've started running premix for a couple reasons. I can't carry 4 gallons of water in the winter, unless I keep it inside the truck. I don't have running water at the shop in the winter. It IS more convenient than concentrate.
I'm gonna start carrying 5-6 liters of 80W90 too. $6 each at home, $12-14 each at truck stops
 

mndriver

curmudgeon extraordinare
Supporter
#20
I've started to not carry any fluids with me. If I need oil, something is seriously wrong or it's due an oil change anyway.

Keep 2-3 tubes of grease on the truck for the 5th wheel.


I had a bottle of 80W90 fall over and it sucks to have to clean oil up from the side box or where ever you keep it.

I base all the fluids on the truck I use on what is readily available to me I can find on the road. Rarely do I go a day I'm not seeing an O'Reilly's or napa. So if I need something, I just swing in and get it. Makes it easier for other parts for repairs as well that way.

Coolant I'll mix at home anyway and refill all the coolant bottles I have and Mark them "mixed". Let's me use the tester on it too allowing me to make sure it's right
 
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